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| View over Lake Tahoe from Northstar California |
One of the best aspects of a multi-centre Tahoe trip is having to drive around Lake Tahoe. It’s one of those instances in life when the journey is an integral inspirational part of the adventure as it is utterly beautiful, so unspoilt, and most of the road is sensationally scenic over the sapphire lake. Even the locals agree that it is an attraction in itself – one told me she had circumnavigated the 21.75 mile-long lake at least eight times since moving to the area a few months ago.
It was also fascinating to drive through King’s Beach, the sleepover scene of two trips back in 1991 when we stayed in an A-Frame overlooking the lake. I even recognized a corner pub which looked as though little had changed in 27 years.
We couldn’t remember much about Northstar - beyond a burning desire to return to the scene of our youthful Californian ski spree - as we only skied there a day in a whiteout and didn’t experience the village at all. But this visit, with all its premier platinum potential, was bound to yield enduring memories! One of the best things about blogging, apart from sharing travel tips with others, is that you have your own personal memoir of every trip.
Nowadays, Northstar is all about effortless and luxurious ski holidays. With everything ski in/out, the ritzy resort works well for families, groups, and couples like us (ie no longer enjoy walking too far burdened with heavy skigear!) If there are any non-skiers or less enthusiastic members in a group, there’s masses to do right amongst all the accommodation, with a lovely skating rink right in the centre, a theatre, shops, cafés and restaurants with melodic music piped throughout the village. We had a wonderful two-storey apartment with great views over all these amenities and an easy stroll to the gondola.
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| Elizabeth serving the Veuve at Northstar California |
The a la carte Platinum experience at Northstar takes everything up a notch with options for lift priority (a lane to jump the queue, like the ski instructors get) both for Platinum season pass holders and Platinum day skiers; valet parking; club membership; first tracks with a bountiful breakfast at Zephyr Lodge; private mountain guides; and, of course, the decadent Platinum Tōst which we just had to sample.
Every day at 2pm anyone can roll up to the tiny Tōst cabana and have a free glass of Prosecco standing at the high-top barrel tables or reclining on beanbags – that’s just the daily stellar style in which Northstar does things.
Every day at 2pm anyone can roll up to the tiny Tōst cabana and have a free glass of Prosecco standing at the high-top barrel tables or reclining on beanbags – that’s just the daily stellar style in which Northstar does things.
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| Tōst cabana at Northstar - Courtesy of Northstar California |
However, with Platinum Tōst, you arrive in advance of the crowds, at 1pm and are ushered into a gated firepit area, provided with a picnic hamper, overflowing platters of cheese and charcuterie, complemented by a chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot poured by smiling sommelier, Elizabeth (who says she has the best job on the mountain, incidentally). The refined repast in this enchanted setting, lasts up to two hours, and is finished off with your own S’mores kit to roast over the fire, while languishing leisurely in the sun overlooking the mountainous Martis Valley. You cannot help but raise a glass to toast inquisitive skiers passing by! This is definitely the most decadent onhill hedonism I have ever experienced.
If you just take the elite Tōst as an example, you can see how much having Platinum pleasures can enhance your ski day – especially when the sun is shining after a morning of gliding the groomers or ploughing the pow. If you’ve also taken advantage of Platinum parking, first tracks and all-day lift priority, you can just imagine how much vertical you can notch up, too. New next year will be Platinum Terrain, an exclusive trail only open to Platinum pass holders.
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| Free Prosecco every afternoon at Northstar California |
So, back to the skiing. When we arrived in mid Feb, it had been a slow snow year for Tahoe – ironic after their record winter last year and the massive amounts they have since got during Miracle March 2018!! Although we didn’t get any powder while we were there (it arrived a few days after we got home!) we had a marvelous opportunity to ski what 75 percent of skiers prefer: the groomers. Now a lot of people ski groomers as if they are in the Winter Olympics, making the experience a race, a speed fix, a challenge, fast and furious. Yes, this has its adrenalin allure, but I discovered that my mountain mojo is much more melodic than that these days: a dance rather than a race.
Under the tutelage of instructor and mountain guide, Debi Glovins, I got into a reverie of rhythm on the corduroy carvers, focusing on the subtleties of changing snow under foot. It felt like a graceful harmony of balance, gravity, ski technology and the body’s ability to read the mountain almost unconsciously. Some of my best mountain moments, over the past 44 seasons, have been ski symphonies like this, where every element is orchestrated into one entity of flow, enabling me to savour the sensations and the scenery. Having written a lot recently about mindful ski instruction, I realize that I actually ski mindfully, particularly when I am relaxed on blue groomers in bluebird sunshine – and that feeling, just like Tōst, is a platinum champagne experience itself!
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| Corduroy carver - Courtesy of Northstar California |
When snow conditions are fresh and deep, I attribute these type of euphoric feelings to the powder, adding to my craving for new snowfalls all the time. But I have realized during this slower snow season that the same feelings are attainable in other conditions – particularly a blue-sky sunny day on consistent corduroy.
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| Dan Kwong, centre |
Dan Kwong is lucky enough to work at Northstar year round as Senior Manager of Talent Development. We caught up with him for après ski drinks at Tavern 6330 (its altitude in feet) before heading to dinner at yummy Yamakai. Dan started off as a teaching assistant with the Children’s Ski & Snowboard School: “My first entry level job where I made tater tots and sugar cookies, took kids to the bathroom, served lunch and cleaned up the ski school space!” Over the next six seasons he progressed through kids’ instruction into supervision and management, all at the resort where he himself learned to ski in the 90s. “I am fortunate that I continue to work for Vail Resorts so getting my ski fix isn’t hard,” says Dan. “Even in my desk-oriented position, my office is found at the base of some amazing mountains. I frequently travel to Utah and Colorado to expand my ski legs. I’m looking forward to tackling Whistler Blackcomb as they fold into our family. Though we all work really hard, we find time to live our passion even during the work day. This might mean I ski an hour with a leader to consult on her team’s development on the chair lift. It could also look like skiing around the resort and connecting with front line staff to see what they need to be successful.”
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| Courtesy of Northstar California |
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| Moguls at Northstar - Courtesy of Northstar California |
We chatted a lot about Northstar’s topnotch customer service (and I’ll let you know about forthcoming articles on that when they’re published) – the result of ongoing training and education opportunities for all the staff throughout the season. Passionate about his job, Dan has the perfect work/lifestyle mix: “I love the village, tree skiing, mile long leg burning runs and the secret stashes at Lookout Mountain. Because I work for a ski company there are many perks including my Epic Pass, buddy tickets for friends and family and discounted food and retail. We all have things that we spend money on and I choose to spend it at Northstar - and other ski resorts - because it is my passion and I value the experience I get when I’m here on and off the clock.”
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| Zephyr Lodge Northstar California |
No-one could indulge in Platinum’s afternoon Tōst two days in a row – especially after succulent steaks at Yamakai- so the next day, after another mindful morning, we lunched at the Zephyr Lodge on fabulous tomato bisque and chili – great self-service lodge with masses of wooden décor finishes (including old skis), huge panoramic windows, and comfortable wooden chairs. After an afternoon of notching up Epic Pass stats, we returned to the bar there, to check out its reputation for clever cocktails.
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| Ritz Carlton Northstar |
Having settled into the five-star swing of things, a visit to the Ritz Carlton was a must. Set right on the slopes and linked to Northstar Village by the Highlands Gondola, the Ritz Carlton Northstar is an attraction in itself (a bit like being in Banff and having to make a voyeuristic visit to the iconic Banff Springs). Whether you go for the sensuous spa, a romantic dinner at Manzanita, the 4:30pm daily Marshmology celebration, an Easter brunch complete with chocolate eggs and bunnies, the Xmas Gingerbread Village, the Atelier Arts & Crafts program, or simply a glass of French champers at the Moët & Chandon Bar, there’s something for everyone.
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| Ski Valet at Ritz Carlton Northstar |
My heli-ski friend, Brett Matik stayed at the Ritz Carlton when she skied Northstar a few years ago. "We went once as a family and my husband went back with friends and one of our kids," she told me. "We stayed at the Ritz which is fabulous - there is no better location. The ski valets are unreal. They put your skis on the mountain for you and when you are done they take them away. If you have little kids you can even have them come get them for ski school. They also have a place to eat on the mountain that literally gives you slippers to have lunch while your boots are on warmers. The entire place is like a country club for skiers." Brett also loved the Village skating area and restaurants which are all conveniently accessed by the Ritz's gondola. "We loved the area too," says Brett. "One day we were not skiing we drove around the lake and explored. My kids loved learning about the history. The Jax Diner is also a fun location to eat in Truckee." The Matiks buy the Epic Pass particularly when they plan to ski at least two Vail Resorts in the same season. And they all race each other using the Ski Tracks app: "So far the kids haven’t beat me but they are getting close."
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| Marshmology magic at the Ritz Carlton Northstar |
With S’mores becoming a daily devotion on our Tahoe trip, we popped along for Marshmology where we could choose between the usual white globular blobs to spear with our toasting forks or more inventive homemade marshmallows of the day. It was cherry flavour when we were there, a five-star Michelin of marshmallows! By the way, Marshmology is open to anyone, not just Ritz residents, and there are also free S’mores at 4pm every day by the ice rink in Northstar Village. And for astrology advocates, there’s a new Stars and S’mores program at the Ritz Carlton Fireside Terrace with science-based cosmos conversation, poetry reading and telescopic viewing.
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| Tree-like fireplace in the Living Room at the Ritz Carlton Northstar |
Following pre-dinner drinks in the gorgeous fireside Living Room lounge, we sampled Manzanita’s mouthwatering menu on Feb 13 – a day early, I know, but we designated it our Valentine’s Dinner. From their incredible potato leek rolls, elk meatballs, artful salads, filet mignon with Dungeness crab and bouillabaisse (all shared), to the coffee and chocolate mousse it was a feast worthy of the film The Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover (a 1989 Helen Mirren classic which I always think of when I over-eat).
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| Manzanita fine dining at the Ritz Carlton Northstar |
Next morning, we celebrated Feb 14 in romantic style with a couple’s massage at the Ritz Carlton’s Highlands Spa. By the way, everyone makes suggestive jokes when you mention couple’s massages but I can assure you that any grunts or groans were the result of the pummeling palms of the professional massage therapists. Another glass of somewhat-early-in-the-day champagne later, and we stopped for copious carb consumption at Copperlane Café on our way out of town to our final Tahoe destination.
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| Highlands Spa at the Ritz Carlton Northstar |
Other Northstar Novelties:
Her Mountain: Ski, rejuvenate and connect in a two-day getaway which brings women closer together by allowing them to enjoy a weekend away in the mountains in a like-minded group. This spectacular retreat includes personalized lessons with female coaches, restorative yoga, Platinum First Tracks AND Platinum Tōst. Learn more HERE. Her Mountain was inspired by Northstar California’s Vice President and General Manager, Nadia Guerriero, one of the only women running a resort in the ski industry and one of the youngest. The key to her success is infusing mindfulness into her work. Whether she is motivating teams through self-care and awareness or driving the business with calm clarity, Nadia is able to navigate through challenges with her team’s unwavering trust.
Her Mountain, a new winter experience at Northstar, is designed for women by women. The concept centers around the mountain environment, appreciating the Sierra setting, focusing on the physical bodies that allow us to explore, and making space for minds to be present. Her Mountain is a women’s retreat offered twice each winter, and again twice in the summer. The winter itinerary includes female-only ski and snowboard lessons designed to encourage confidence, be present on the mountain and lift up one-another; designated time to focus on mindfulness and health; and experiential connection time focusing on in-person contact with the other participants – all in a surreal alpine setting.
Mountain Table Dinners: A unique dining experience at 7,910'. Indulge in food with wine pairings and access to some of the most influential wine representatives from the California Wine Country. Learn more HERE.
Additional activities and experiences: Including snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, fat tire biking, star tours, yoga, and a full kids adventure zone that features fun facts about the local history and environment.
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| Courtesy of Northstar California |
Mountain Stats:
Social Media:
Website: NorthstarCalifornia.com
Twitter: @SkiNorthstar
Facebook: Facebook.com/Northstar
Getting There:
Flying into Reno is so easy! A smaller ‘boutique’ airport, it is seamless – the luggage carousel is just opposite the car rental desks, so one of us was able to wait for luggage (which was the quickest ever) while the other did the car rental business, halving the time and getting us on the road really speedily.
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Run back down to the village past the Ritz Carlton Northstar - Courtesy of Northstar California
Skiable Acres: 3,170
Vertical Drop: 2,280
Elevation (Summit): 8,610 feet
Elevation (Mid-mountain): 6,800 feet
Elevation (Village): 6,330 feet
Winter Season: Mid-Nov. to Mid-April
Average Annual Snowfall: 350 inches
Average Daytime High: 43 degrees F (Nov-April)
Average Overnight Low: 21 degrees F (Nov-April)
Snowmaking Coverage: 50% (largest snowmaking system in North Lake Tahoe)
Trails: 100
Beginner: 13%
Intermediate: 60%
Advanced: 27%
Longest Run: 1.4 Miles Logger’s Loop
Laded Tree Skiing: 7 Trails, 600+ Acres
Gate-Accessed Advanced Terrain: 374 Acres (Sawtooth Ridge, White Rabbit)
Lifts: 20
Gondolas: 2
Six-Pack Express: 1
Quad Express Chairs: 7
Quad Fixed-Grip Chairs: 1
Triples Chairs: 2
Tow/Surface Lifts: 2
Magic Carpets: 5
Uphill Capacity: 34,799 Skiers Per Hour
Telemark Skiing: Yes
Fat Biking: Yes
Snow Tubing: Lift-Accessed
Child Care: Licensed (ages 2+)
Overnight Ski/Board Check: Yes (complimentary)
Ski & Snowboard School: Yes
Tuning & Repairs: Yes
Cross Country Skiing: 23.7 Kilometers
Snowshoeing: 32.5 Kilometers
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