Wednesday, December 19, 2018

Serenity at Solitude

Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
It may be quiet and crowd-free at Solitude Mountain Resort, but you’re never alone. Tucked away in Little Cottonwood Canyon, 40 mins drive from SLC Airport, Solitude is an Alterra-owned 1200-acre, 77-run resort which resonates particularly with friendly families, chatty couples and garrulous groups – and those seeking a bigger proportion of powder per person than is typically attainable at larger resorts. Be prepared to share your tips on the chair or the hot tub, though, as this is a really conversational place!

The Inn at Solitude - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Anchored by the Inn at Solitude, the village has an Austrian Alpine theme with cute shutters, beams and balconies. With no through traffic, the prevailing ambiance is calm and laid-back with only the sounds of euphoric voices to compete with the birdsong - Solitude’s emblem is incidentally a yellow bird on a sky-blue background. Luggage is transported from the lodging carpark around accommodation by extended golf cart with a trailer – reminiscent of car-free Zermatt, Switzerland.


Breakfast Buffet at Inn at Solitude - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Tim Wolfgram
Courtesy of 
Solitude Mountain Resort
Arriving early morning, we checked into the Inn at Solitude with time for the big buffet breakfast before heading off for skiing with then Communications Manager (and ace ski photographer) Sherri Harkin. Her husband is Tim Wolfgram, Director of Solitude's Snowsports Academy, who managed to squeeze a few rapid runs with us in his Sunday schedule. I had interviewed him recently so it was great to meet him in person although his Mach 2 skiing speed limited conversations to the chairlifts! Honestly, Sherri and Tim are probably the most accomplished skiing couple I've ever seen. I can imagine tourists just moving over to the side of the piste and watching in awe as they speed past like polished Olympic athletes. Tim started skiing at age 14 when living in Wisconsin - "My friend Greg Nelson from school brought me up to Birch Park in Wisconsin way back for some night skiing, I think we rode the school bus up there. I was mesmerized by the big hill all lit up, he taught me a stem christie using a rope tow, and I was off and running". Six years later, Tim became an instructor, going on to teach in Montana, Idaho, Colorado, New Hampshire and New Zealand as well as Utah. He's also ski bummed around Europe, Canada and South America. With skiing changing his life, he has gone on to influence others: "Sure I have had fun, and I love to ski the deep powder still, especially with my wife, but it's the profound differences I have made in people young and old. That is what skiing has done for me."

Simon celebrating the ski day with Solitude BrewSki at The Last Chance Lodge
The Roundhouse - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Love The Roundhouse where we had lunch with Sherri that day - Tim had to zoom off back to work. There are Himalayan delicacies as well as local Wasatch fare and the building's architecture is as eclectic as the menu, with its central iron fireplace which survived a devastating fire in 2016. This is where we first discovered - and later sampled at the Last Chance Lodge - Solitude's own branded beer, BrewSki which was custom made for the winter season by Bohemian Brewery SLC and launched around the resort December 2017, both in cans and on tap. 

'Honeymoon' Canyon
Skiing at a somewhat slower pace that pm, we were able to explore Honeycomb Canyon - nicknamed Honeymoon by me because of its secluded beauty - which is a gorgeous traverse-accessed bowl, followed by a sweeping area of forest and trails meandering through the valley. 


The Library Bar at Inn at Solitude - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Back at the Inn, it was outdoor tub time, watching the slopes closing down for the evening from the hot sanctuary. Having forgotten my flipflops, I discovered that the walkway to the tub is heated, too. So thoughtful! 

Although nothing here is super-duper modern, the rooms are huge with loads of sockets for all the electronics, great balconies overlooking the slopes or the quaint village, huge king beds, good bathrooms with spacious separate sink area, lots of hanging hooks for all the ski wear, fridge and coffee making, and my favourite luxury: bath robes. 

Downstairs, the Library Bar is great (and there is actually a library of books to borrow nearby) with a cozy fireplace lounge abutting the St Bernard RestaurantSunday is Bavarian buffet night, so after Prosecco in the Library, we indulged in a smorgasbord of salads, charcuterie, filet along with three other entrees, pasta, vegetables and potatoes, and a collection of chocolatey, nutty, fudgy bites.  

Kelly (left) with me
Following a guilt-absolving parfait next morning, trying to resist the blow-out breakfast, we met ski instructor Kelly Boardman-Fowler, who specializes in big-mountain coaching for teens. Well, we're young at heart, but our injuries preclude anything remotely radical, so Kelly had a different focus with us. "Addicted to turning" became the mantra of the day and we spent several intense hours working on technique before launching into great bump terrain and letting rip. 

Kelly at work - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
With a Masters in Geography and dreams of doing a PhD, Kelly is type A in her skiing too. She's going for Level 3 Alpine instructor and is also a Level 1 snowboard instructor and proficient telemarker and Nordic skier. We skied lovely uncrowded frontside spring conditions off the Powderhorn and Apex lifts, including perfect groomers on Main Street and Diamond Lane, and a bit of off piste on Paradise. 

Kelly in action - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
We discovered, too, that if you have a pass for neighbouring Brighton Resort, you can ski there via the Sol Bright run, doing both resorts in the same day. "I fell in love with the mountains, snowsports, rock and mountain climbing, mountain biking and trail running," says Kelly who spent her youth skiing the Lake Tahoe resorts, followed by four seasons at Mammoth Lakes. Raising two kids now she is supporting the family's active lifestyle with her work at Solitude which includes training the Big Mountain Team at weekends all season. "On Wednesdays, I coach a women’s clinic for local ladies who want to get out and improve their skills and shred Solitude’s expert terrain," she says. "In between, I teach tots to adults, beginners to experts, skiers and snowboarders. On my days off I am usually skiing the awesome stashes of Solitude." 

Like I say, the vibe around the slopes is fun and friendly, where everyone is either in the know or happy to share their locals' perspective. Everything seems very calm and Zen, rather than ruthless competition. This is not just my impression - it is reinforced by local Olympian, Graham Watanabe who joined the resort's "influencer" program three years ago. Influencers, or ambassadors, by the way, are a trend at an increasing number of ski resorts which engage local pro athletes to harness their persuasive word-of-mouth power to encourage visitation and enhance the visitor experience. Graham, who has lived in Utah for 14 years, is a two-time Olympian in Snowboard Cross, and X Games silver medalist, and twice national champ. He is currently head coach for U.S. Adaptive/Paralympic Snowboarding. 

Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Back to Solitude: "I think my favorite area is anything under and around Powderhorn II lift because especially on a powder day, this seems to be where most people begin their day," says Graham. "Being able to see and be seen by all the other skiers and boarders, cheer them on, and share the stoke goes against the phrase "No friends on a powder day" in the best way possible. Maybe, 'Everyone is your friend on a powder day!'" His off-piste pick is Fantasy Ridge but, for a full day of "Solitude solitude", he recommends lapping the Black Forest area. "I used to be too excited to be bothered to stop through the course of the day for food, so I would just bring snacks for lift rides."  

However, now that Graham is a father, he enjoys setting up camp in the Moonbeam Lodge, trading off babyminding and shredding with his wife in order to continue the mountain lifestyle as a family affair. This lifestyle is a year-round commitment for the Watanabes who focus on snowboarding, skiing and Nordic in the winter and disc golf, hiking and mountain biking in summer. 

Josh Manwaring
Another interesting local character is teacher and coach, Josh Manwaring who returned to the scene of his childhood ski trips, six years ago. Some of the steepest and deepest skiing at Solitude, he says, is off Fantasy Ridge and Crystal Point - he should know, he is Head Coach of the Big Mountain Team. When he's not coaching, he's skiing and then in summer he morphs into a multi-tasking travel blogger, living and traveling in a van with his wife: "I spend whatever time I have left doing graphic design, photography, videography, and co-managing a Circus/Aerial Arts Facility in Sandy, Utah."

Just Joshing!
Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Josh takes part in the annual Torchlight Parade on New Year's Eve at Solitude. "During this event, participating instructors ski down from the top of the Eagle lift at night in formation with road flares in-hand. It's quite the spectacle and the camaraderie we experience at this event is awesome," he says. But another more unusual event is the Annual Chocolate Lovers Festival which runs in March. It's a novel scavenger hunt which starts off by skiers picking up Chocolate Lover's Passports at the base which directs them to different stations around the mountain and village for complimentary choccy fixes such as chocolate icecream, chocolate-covered strawberries, and chocolate milk. The passports are also stamped and later entered into prize draws at the end of the free event. 

Peter cooking brats for the FOGs
Running throughout the season is another signature event - the Solitude FOGs' tailgating party which is set up in style in the carpark. The FOGS - who have their own Facebook Page - are 'professional' partyers bringing gas BBQs, tables and chairs for groups of 30 or more. Longtime member Peter Geisthardt says FOG stands for either 'fast on groomers' or 'friendly old guys' but mentions there are other unprintable definitions. As well as working as a lift foreman at Solitude, Peter has worked at Alta Ski AreaDeer Valley ResortCanyons Resort and Snowbird

Honeycomb Grill - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort


Our last night at Solitude we had a feast at Honeycomb Grill which has the cutest little rustic bar area for pre-dinner drinks (or bar snacks) and a lovely restaurant featuring Alpine faves such as raclette as well as succulent bison burgers and all the main mountain munchies. It was buzzing with a mix of Millennials, families and emptynesters like us.


Check out last year's article about Solitude, too:

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Solitude at night - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
What's New:
Serene Solitude 
Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort
Solitude and Brighton Join Ikon Pass

Ikon Pass holders now have access to nearly 10,000 acres of terrain in Utah between Deer Valley Resort, Alta, Snowbird, and now 
Solitude Mountain Resort and Brighton Resort - the most terrain offered in Utah on any season pass.

Alterra Mountain Company completed its acquisition of 
Solitude Mountain Resort located in Big Cottonwood Canyon in early August. The mountain offers skiers and riders 77 runs, three bowls, and a vertical drop of 2,030 feet across 1,200 acres, plus some of the most impressive off-piste terrain in the country. The quaint base village offers ski-in/ski-out accommodations along with year-round activities for guests.

Brighton, located at the top of Big Cottonwood Canyon, boasts one hundred percent of its terrain as accessible by high speed quads, allowing guests to maximize their day of incredible Utah skiing and riding. Both mountains average 500 inches of Utah's light, fluffy, dry snow, making them a paradise for skiers and riders.

"
Brighton Resort is excited to be included in the Ikon Pass and honored to be part of such a premier group of destinations. We look forward to providing an exceptional experience for Ikon Pass holders visiting the Wasatch Range," said Randy Doyle, President & General Manager, Brighton Resort.

"The Ikon Pass is expanding, and with the addition of 
Solitude Mountain Resort and Brighton Resort, we are excited to offer unparalleled access to Utah, a state known around the world for its snow quality, variety of terrain, and accessibility," said Erik Forsell, Chief Marketing Officer of Alterra Mountain Company. "We are thrilled to jump start the ski and snowboard season by adding more premier Ikon Pass destinations for winter 2018/2019."
The Inn at Solitude on right - Courtesy of Solitude Mountain Resort