One Two Ski: February 2022

The Wrights (right) and Hudsons (left) at Sun Peaks

It’s a small and subtle change, but just lately British, Australian and American accents are tentatively multiplying at Sun Peaks. Pent-up potential skiers are slowly appearing for vacations and longer stays and there’s a feeling that post-pandemic partying on the pistes and enhanced après action may not be all that far off.

The domestic ski market - from across Canada - has been flourishing this season, particularly at weekends, but up until recently it was only the ultra ‘crisis resistant tourist’ who turned up from overseas. Craving a Canadian adventure, two Brits braved the travel tribulations to spend a week at Sun Peaks last month, skiing daily and sampling the culinary cornucopia of the pretty Tyrolean-themed town. “We came to Sun Peaks because the shutdown for Brits in France meant that all the other resorts in Italy, Austria etc would be crammed with British skiers,” says Bill Wright. “We decided on Canada because my wife, Deb had never been, we had friends living in Sun Peaks for the winter, and, by coincidence, our son’s girlfriend comes from Vancouver and her parents used to own a condo in the resort.” Stars aligned!

Sun Peaks

Plane Privileges

Choosing WestJet Business Class flights into Kamloops made the lengthy journey with a six hour layover in Calgary less arduous. “The comfortable Westjet lounge really helped, we were able to take turns having naps, and have plenty to eat and drink,” said Bill. “But really I think the flights should be better timed to arrive in the resort for dinner if they want to attract more Brits in future.” There were also beds on the plane, making the Atlantic crossing cushy. Due to Bill’s global oil business career, the Wrights have lived in many different countries, skiing their way around the world. “We skied a lot in the US while we were based in Texas, especially Colorado, and we absolutely love Vail,” says Deb. A stint in Paris led to many French and Italian ski resort forays.

Great grooming and empty slopes - Photo by Kelly Brown

Millionaire Skiing

So, how does Sun Peaks compare with ritzy resorts elsewhere in the eyes of these cosmopolitan connoisseurs? “It is millionaire skiing!” Deb exclaimed on her first day, when she saw how few people there were on perfectly groomed slopes swathed in sunshine. It was a Wednesday in late January – weekdays at Sun Peaks are sparsely populated compared to weekends. “Also, although it has been sunny all day, the snow hasn’t melted and gone slushy by the afternoon like it would in the European resorts that we’re used to,” said Bill. “It’s amazing how the temperatures are low enough for the snow to stay crisp all day but not too cold to make it uncomfortable for us.”

On Top of the World

The panoramic views across the Okanagan to the Big White and Revelstoke ranges were a major hit. “We’re also really enchanted by the pretty town and the fact that everything is a stone’s throw from the Sun Peaks Grand where we’re staying,” he added. “We chose that hotel because of the pool and hot tubs – we are ‘Polar’ swimmers in the UK, going in the sea daily throughout the winter.” In fact he was caught on camera on Christmas Day 2021 after a swim on Brighton Beach, England with TV presenter Jeff Brazier and ended up in the Daily Mail newspaper - (Bill's on the right of the photo).

Hot tub at the Grand

Hot Tub Heaven

The couple’s hot tub hilarity was a daily feature. The first day, anxious to regenerate aching muscles and recover from jet lag, Bill was hoping for a restful soak with the occasional plunge into the surrounding snow – “I like to do polar bear rolls in the snow in between hot tub hopping,” he describes. But a group of garrulous guests meant that conversation was inevitable. Once used to this, both the Wrights really enjoyed their hot tub experiences, fascinated by the different lifestyles and culture of their fellow hardy travellers (Canadians, Brits, Austrians, Germans, Americans and Australians) as well as everyone's shared Sun Peaks’ stories. “It’s like the Cantina bar in Star Wars,” quipped Bill. “It’s great that the Grand has three hot tubs which are outdoors overlooking the pistes as well as the spectacular sunset views down the valley.”

Heated Patio at Vertical Café

Vertical Vittles

Their first day, the Wrights headed to Vertical Café for mid-morning coffee, on a mission suggested by their son and his girlfriend who had highly recommended it for Sun Peaks’ healthiest food options as well as several decadent treats. They had rented skis from the Grand’s ski shop and were meeting their ‘ski guides’ (yours truly and hubby Simon) at 11 for an introduction to the piste map. As it turned out, they were so enchanted by the Vertical vittles that they returned there on several occasions, sampling a good portion of the menu including drinks, vegetable soups, healthy locally-farmed salads, creative vegan wraps - and, notably, their iced cinnamon buns.

Vertical Café cinnamon sensation

Sharing the Love

Showing the Wrights around the lift system, which spans three mountains and 4270 acres of skiable terrain, was a positive pleasure for Simon and I. We ski almost every day with a goal of clocking up 100 days by the end of the season. Often in groups with locals, we have great fun in every weather and diverse snow conditions, trying out different runs and routes all the time, and enjoying all the chairlift chatter. However, it’s not until you are showing off Sun Peaks to newcomers that you recreate that first-time fervour. Just like the nightly après scene, it’s intoxicating! The Wednesday, Thursday and Friday all qualified as ‘millionaire’s skiing’ for the Wrights as the slopes were blissfully quiet with no sign of a lift line. We spent the weekend successfully avoiding queues by timing our slope choices against the typical flow, skiing over the lunch period, and going slightly off the beaten track.

Dipping into West Bowl

Powder Paradise

Both Monday and Tuesday were powder days – slightly stodgier on the first day (if you’re being powder picky!) but pure light-as-a-feather Okanagan Champagne Pow on their last day. “This is just what I was expecting in Canada,” said Bill as we took him on a hike into West Bowl, putting in fresh tracks in the hero snow. We returned to the area a second time to find the wind had sifted snow back into our tracks, clearing the slate for a second sensational virgin powder plunge!

Wine Wednesday

Their first dinner out was at Bottoms Bar & Grill which offers half priced bottles of wine on Wednesdays. This is a great deal, with quaffs such as The Show, a Californian cabernet sauvignon around $20. Several local beers and Okanagan wines were also sampled that night in the jolly atmosphere at this intrinsic après ski bar, right on the foot of the slopes, which has a more intimate vibe now that tables are partitioned with screens sporting gorgeous mountainscapes by local artists and photographers.

The conservatory at Bottoms Bar & Grill

For sharing, get the nachos, the Thai Laksa curry is always good, as well as the burgers, halloumi, beef dip, and anything with their signature curly fries. If you hashtag Bottoms on your Sun Peaks’ snaps on Instagram, you could see your holiday handiwork featured on their Instagram screen during dinner.

Voyageur Bistro

Jaegermeister Moment

Our ‘Friday Night Out’ was at vibrant Voyageur Bistro which specializes in ancient recipes and locally-sourced Canadian cuisine. A dinner delay meant that, after our starters which included bannock, brie and berry compote, we over-imbibed somewhat. But who could resist the Hester Creek followed by the wine list’s most expensive offering, The Judge? Well, we lost all judgement that’s for sure and ended up downing two trays of Jaegermeister shots as well. Our last bottle was called Moon something – chosen merely because we liked the name. Poutine was the biggest hit – “it’s something I just have to try,” said Deb who again had been schooled in Canadian ski resort staples in advance by her son. Voyageur excels in this downhill delicacy, mixing sweet potato and normal fries in with the homemade gravy and Armstrong cheese curds. And the bison burgers and ribs all went down very well, helping to counteract the incipient hangovers. Another feature there is the Tortière, a French-Canadian puff pastry meat pie for which I have even witnessed vegetarians breaking their resolve.

Cahilty Creek Kitchen & Taproom

Culinary Capers

Cahilty Creek Kitchen & Taproom was a big hit with the Wrights. They sauntered there from the Grand which is right next door, dining on kale and Brussel sprout salads, flat iron steak and chips, with roasted fresh veg. “It was just what we needed after a day on the slopes, really good food, very good service and a jolly atmosphere,” said Deb.

They were also impressed by Mantles, securing tables by the cosy romantic fireplace, and served by the highly professional bar manager. “He is so well informed,” enthused Bill who has a bit of a reputation as a wine buff himself. “We had a great conversation about Canadian wine from the Okanagan and ended up with a Hunter Hill, a winery that the bar manager had actually visited.” Craving more healthy produce, they loved the chili pecan salad and traditional Caesar.

Masa’s Happy Hour

It’s possible that Deb overdid the merlot at Masa’s where we had pre-dinner drinks one night, but she recovered over the sizzling schnitzel cordon bleu afterwards at Powder Hounds. This is one of our faves – we’re going there for Valentine’s Day dinner – and other features that night were the schnitzel Oscar, the stroganoff and the linguine bolognaise. Such great décor – what could have been just a squarish dining room in a modern building has been transformed by the creative ceiling décor, glass table separators and the sociable bar area. Then there's the accomplished wait staff who manage to be both real and polished at the same time. Opening back in 1998, Powder Hounds is Sun Peaks' oldest privately-owned restaurant.

Snow Ghosts at Sun Peaks

Conclusions from our Canadian Converts

“I think the skiing at Sun Peaks is fabulous, so well-groomed, with lots of meandering tree-line trails making for beautiful picturesque vistas around every corner,” said Deb. This impression was echoed by Bill who also loved skiing in and out of - and around - the village: “Sun Peaks is truly ski in/ski out and everything is so accessible, taking out all the hassles out of skiing. I would come back for that very reason because things work here.”

Beautifully decorated rooms at the Sun Peaks Grand

Walking around the resort from the centrally positioned Grand was also sheer pleasure and the Wrights were interested to learn that the celebrated resort planner, Paul Mathews of Ecosign had purposely designed Sun Peaks with a ski-through groomed Main Street and avoided putting in stairs that, at other resorts, make for difficult negotiation in slippery ski boots. With slopeside eateries dotted everywhere at European ski resorts, Deb concluded that this wasn’t a loss at Sun Peaks. “We had the Sunburst Lodge which was pivotally positioned for rests, loo stops and lunches,” she said. “And it doesn’t matter that there are not many places up the mountain to eat because all the village restaurant and cafés are so easy to access as part of the ski day.” Skiing to the grocery shop or ski boutiques was also a plus. “And the ski valet at the Sun Peaks Grand is spectacular,” Bill enthused. “You simply hand your skis in and they are gone! And you can wear your ski boots back through the hotel to your room which is a real bonus as a lot of places don’t allow that.”

Search for Cinnamon

One other thing that might bring them back next season was the hunt for the elusive Sunburst cinnamon bun. By Day 7 Deb was desperate to try the fabled Sun Peaks pastry that arrives daily at the Sunburst Bar & Eatery, the redolent baking smell preceding its appearance. Again son and girlfriend had rhapsodized about this local tradition. A 10:45 coffee break was sure to result in cinnamon success, or so the staff at the Grand had told her that morning. Instead of the usual ‘Sold Out’ sign, there were actually two of the huge buns at the counter and just one person in front of Deb in the queue. Result! Or was it? Turned out the lady ahead bagged both to share among her party of four and Deb’s hopes were dismally dashed. A later lunch stop at The Annex daylodge also failed on the cinnamon front. Oh well, there’s always next time!

Easy button temperature adjustment on Ororo heated gloves

Handy Heaters

The 'Wright Advice' for other wannabee visitors to Canadian ski resorts - invest in heated gloves, socks or boots. "Everyone seems to have them here," says Deb. "I actually have the fixture in my boots already, I just need the batteries. And I really would like a pair of Ororo heated gloves. I've seen how cushy it is to be able to switch them on and off depending on the temperature and use the various levels." Ororo also make heated fleeces, heated vests, heated jackets, heated hoodies, all suitable for wintersports, golf, hunting, biking, winter dog walking and hiking.